Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. In this situation, the signal is carried by an RCA patch cable from the receiver to the amp. If your receiver does not have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature loudspeaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which stage the loudspeaker-level signal down to a preamp-level signal suitable for the amp.
Even though car amplifiers come with RCA input jacks, your inventory stereo may not support the option to send sound through RCA outs. Nonetheless you can connect the amplifier having a "Line Level" connection. You join one of the audio wires already connected to your stereo into the amplifier's "Line Level" input jack. All-you need is enough wire to make the link from your trunk's loudspeaker to your own amplifier.
The black, or lined, cable will function as negative; the red will function as good. Give yourself enough slack so that the connection will soon be secure, with no possibility of becoming unplugged. Make certain the " " and "-" wires are connected to the same polarity as the loudspeakers.
In case your amp doesn't have loudspeaker-level inputs, a productive and inexpensive line output converter will allow you to step the loudspeaker-level signal down to preamp level. Then run an RCA patch cord from the converter to the amplifier.
By using the 2nd system obtain a line output converter (LOC). Tap the LOC inputs into your rear channel speakers and run RCA's from the LOC to your own amp. The machine shown within the link also features a trigger wire that you connect to the remote terminal of the amp. Should you want you may get a less expensive LOC and simply run a switched 12V supply for the amp.
Join the RCA patch cables (included with most kits) to your radio's RCA preamp outputs (tape them together so they don't come apart), and route the cable to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the automobile from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the electricity wires to avoid potential noise problems. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you need to fix a problem later).
Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn on wire (normally a blue ). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio (as pictured), wrap the turn on lead (included with the kit) around it, and solder it.
Even though car amplifiers come with RCA input jacks, your inventory stereo may not support the option to send sound through RCA outs. Nonetheless you can connect the amplifier having a "Line Level" connection. You join one of the audio wires already connected to your stereo into the amplifier's "Line Level" input jack. All-you need is enough wire to make the link from your trunk's loudspeaker to your own amplifier.
The black, or lined, cable will function as negative; the red will function as good. Give yourself enough slack so that the connection will soon be secure, with no possibility of becoming unplugged. Make certain the " " and "-" wires are connected to the same polarity as the loudspeakers.
In case your amp doesn't have loudspeaker-level inputs, a productive and inexpensive line output converter will allow you to step the loudspeaker-level signal down to preamp level. Then run an RCA patch cord from the converter to the amplifier.
By using the 2nd system obtain a line output converter (LOC). Tap the LOC inputs into your rear channel speakers and run RCA's from the LOC to your own amp. The machine shown within the link also features a trigger wire that you connect to the remote terminal of the amp. Should you want you may get a less expensive LOC and simply run a switched 12V supply for the amp.
Join the RCA patch cables (included with most kits) to your radio's RCA preamp outputs (tape them together so they don't come apart), and route the cable to the OPPOSITE SIDE of the automobile from the power cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the electricity wires to avoid potential noise problems. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you need to fix a problem later).
Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn on wire (normally a blue ). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio (as pictured), wrap the turn on lead (included with the kit) around it, and solder it.
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